Nach insgesamt 3 Tagen Sonne, unendlicher Hitze und einer Flüssigkeitszufuhr von etwa 7 Liter Wasser täglich, bin ich wieder zurück in der “Zivilisation” und habe endlich genügend Schlaf gehabt, um heute zu bloggen.
Doch ihr werdet euch sicher fragen, wie es denn war und was Fudge so erlebt hat. Daher nun ein “kleiner Bericht” meiner Abenteuer.
Alle Wege führen nach Darwin
Los ging mein Trip am Freitag um 6:05 Uhr AM am Melbourner Flughafen Tullarmarin. Ich war verschlafen, da ich ja bereits um 3:30 AM aufstehen musste. Da ich praktisch umsonst flog (Einlösen von Flugmeilen), flog ich nicht nur zu merkwürdigen Zeiten, sondern auch über Umwege. So ging mein erster Flug von Melbourne nach Brisbane. Dort hatte ich ein wenig Aufenthalt und danach ging es um 9:10 AM weiter nach Darwin. Auf dem ganzen Weg tat ich eigentlich nichts anderes als essen und schlafen, daher gibt es davon nicht allzu viel zu berichten.
Sommer – Sonne – Flip Flop Füße
In Darwin angekommen führte mich mein erster Weg zur Flughafen – Toilette, um mich meiner warmen Winterkleider zu entledigen. In Darwin begrüßten mich nämlich sonnige 32 Grad. *juhuuuu*
Meine Füße begrüßten den Sommer mit den üblichen Flip Flop “Verletzungen”, die ich jedes Jahr habe. Und meine Haut durfte sich seit langem mal wieder über Sonnencreme freuen.
Darwin selbst habe ich mir doch ein wenig anders vorgestellt. Doch trotz der ganzen Touristen und Backpacker Hostels ist es eine nette kleine Stadt mit einem schönen Hafengebiet.
Wer mal dort hinkommt, sollte sich eine Hafenrundfahrt im Sonnenuntergang mit dem Segelschiff nicht entgehen lassen! Und macht es nicht wie ich, sondern bucht diese Tour rechtzeitig!!! Denn Fudge sah vom Ufer aus zu, wie ein Segelboot nach dem anderen den Hafen mit lustigen Menschen verließ. 
*grummel*
Unerwarteter Weise sind die Preise in Darwin recht günstig. Keine Zeichen von Touristenausbeutung.
Auf dem Stuart Highway zum Kakadu Nationalpark
Am nächsten Morgen ging es dann um kurz vor 7:00 AM mit dem 4WD auf dem Stuart Highway in Richtung Kakadu Nationalpark. Schon zu dieser frühen Zeit war es extrem warm, was mich ein wenig nachdenklich stimmte, was das stramme Programm des Tages betraf.
Wer einmal in Australien einen Highway befahren hat weiss schon, dass es immer nur geradeaus geht. Und die Maximalgeschwindigkeit 110 km/h ist. Der Meinung war ich auch, nur um hocherfreut festzustellen, dass im Nothern Territory schneller gefahren werden darf. Nämlich flotte 130km/h *yeeeeehaaaa*.
Nach etwa 2 Stunden Fahrt war der Eingang zum Nationalpark erreicht und das Abenteuer konnte beginnen. Ich war gespannt, hatte ich doch bereits auf dem Weg zum Nationalpark Krokodil-Warnschilder gesehen. Bei jedem kleinen Creek den ich kreuzte, hielt ich gespannt Ausschau nach den gepanzerten Tierchen. Doch leider sah ich keines. 
Nourlangie Area und Ubirr Rock
Mein erster Anlaufpunkt im Park war das Bowali Visitor Center. Ausgestattet mit einem Arm voller Broschüren, Millionen von Möglichkeiten und tausenden von “Ohhh, das will ich auch noch machen, und das und jenes” – Gedanken in meinem Kopf ging es zu allererst in die Nourlangie Area, wo ich über Felsen und Geröll auf den Nourlangie Rock kletterte. Von dort aus hat man eine tolle Aussicht über den Park und seine Vegetation. Es war allerdings extrem heiß und so hielt ich es nicht sehr lange dort oben aus und kletterte wieder hinab. Die Hitze machte mir, trotz Wasser und Hut, sehr zu schaffen. Mein Gesicht war rot und mir war heiß, heiß, heiß!!! Doch wirklich das war es wert gewesen!!!
Was ich sehr merkwürdig fand, waren all die Feuer im Park. Man brennt hier Laub und Gras zu Beginn der Trockenzeit ab, um größere Feuer gegen Ende der Trockenzeit (September – November) zu vermeiden. Dadurch hängt ein permanent leichter Rauchgeruch in der Luft und man darf sich nicht wundern, dass am Wegesrand Flammen lodern. So fuhr Fudge, nur getrennt durch die Begrenzungspfosten der Straße, direkt an einem dieser Feuer vorbei, zum zweiten Ziel des Tages, nach Ubirr.
Ein 1km Walking Track führt in Ubirr vorbei an, in den Fels gemalten, Aboriginal Malereien. Ich war froh um den weiblichen Guide, da sie alles wunderbar erklärte und die Symbolik und Bedeutungen der einzelnen Malereien erklärte. Selbst die Geschichten dazu kannte sie.
Auf diesem 1km Walk führt ein 250m steiler Aufstieg zu einem Look Out. Da ich das schon hatte an diesem Tag und es nun noch heißer war, sparte ich ihn mir. Man berichtete aber, dass es besonders am Abend bei Sonnenuntergang sehr lohnenswert sei, hinauf zu klettern.
Grün im Gesicht, aber in einer Cessna geflogen
Mir stand jedoch ein noch größerer Aufstieg bevor! Denn nach Ubirr ging es zum Flughafen von Jabiru. Dort erwartete mich ein Rundflug mit einem *zumindest in meinen Augen* winzigen Flugzeug über den gesamten Park. Ich sag euch, es war einfach klasse! Eine wahnsinns Aussicht und alles wurde schön erklärt. Doch ich glaube das Eis, das ich kurz vorher hatte, vertrug sich nicht mit dieser Art von Unternehmungslust. Nach 35 min Flug wurde mir ausgesprochen schlecht, nach 45 min, war mir super schlecht, nach 55 min, war ich ganz sicher grün im Gesicht und ich war froh, als wir nach einer Stunde wieder landeten und ich an die frische Luft konnte. Aber ich war nicht die Einzigste der es so ging! Zum Glück! Und das mir, wo ich doch Achterbahn und all so Zeugs so liebe und mir nie schlecht wird.
Weil die Stadt direkt neben dem Flughafen lag, schaute ich mir danach noch Jabiru an. Ich hatte mir ein kleines Dörfchen erhofft, vielleicht mit sandigen Straßen und dieser typisch australischen Outback Gelassenheit. Doch mich erwartete… mhhh schwer zu beschreiben… ja mich erwartete fast nichts! Folgt man dem Schild Town Center/ Shopping Mall kommt man zu einem Supermarkt und einem Friseursalon. Nothing else!!!! Unglaublich! Und außer einem Hotel und Caravanparks gibt es vielleicht ein Dutzend Häuser. Ein wenig eEnttäuschend. Doch wie man mir später berichtete, wurde die Stadt errichtet wegen der nahe gelegenen Uran Mine! Ja genau, ihr lest richtig! Mitten in diesem einzigartigen Nationalpark ist eine riesige Uran Mine.
Bark Hut Inn und nackte Australier
However! Nach dem Rundflug ging es auf eine laaaaaaaaange Fahrt wieder aus dem Park heraus zu meiner Unterkunft, dem Bark Hut Inn Pub und Camping Park. Kängurus hüpften munter über den Highway und machten aus der Fahrt in den Sonnenuntergang, eine Fahrt mit Bremseinlagen!;-)
Auf allen Internetseiten die man nach Bark Hut Inn googelt, finden sich Beschreibungen wie “typischer Outback Pub”, “urig”, “typisch Australische Kneipe”, etc… Ich war gespannt was mich hier wohl erwartete. *Insgeheim vermutete ich eine absolute Touristenkneipe, an der alle Busunternehmen halt machen und nur in den frühen Jahren Einheimische gesehen wurden*
Doch das Pub ist wirklich schön. Sicher, ich hab schon urigere Kneipen hier in Australien gesehen, aber dieses war wirklich nett. Der Wirt , Tom, kümmert sich nicht nur um das Pub, sondern auch um die Unterkünfte und den Campingplatz der hinter dem Pub liegt.
Noch nie in meinem Leben habe ich mich so über eine Dusche gefreut, wie an diesem Abend! Auch wenn ich nur kaltes Wasser hatte, und in der Ecke über mir eine Spinne hing, ich fühlte mich wie im Luxushimmel! Gut duftend und erfrischt trottete ich danach hinüber zum Pub und orderte als erstes ein Steak mit Salat und Chips und ein kühles Bierchen. Und tatsächlich es waren auch Australier im Pub. Die hiesige Rugby Mannschaft kam gerade von einem Spiel und trank ihr Siegerbierchen und unterhielt sich lautstark über das Spiel. Doch bevor mein essen noch fertig war, verließen die Jungs den Pub, nur um wenige Minuten später wieder splitter faser nackt in einer Reihe den Pub und den Campingplatz zu durchqueren. ?????? Auf Nachfragen erklärte Tom, dass sie das nach jedem Spiel machten. Dies sei Tradition! Und immer wenn sie in Darwin ein Spiel hätten und dort anschließend nackt in ein Pub kämen, würden sie jedesmal von der Polizei verhaftet werden. *lach* Eine nette Tradition!
Ich trank noch ein paar Schnäpse *sooooooooo billig sag ich euch!!!! Kein Vergleich mit Melbourne!* und dann machte ich mich auf in mein Bettchen. Kaum war das Licht aus, dachte ich an Wolf Creek und an irgendwelche Morde im Outback, über die ich mal gelesen hatte. Ich sag euch Leute, ich hatte keine so ruhige und erholsame Nacht
Adrenalin pur
Dafür gönnte ich mir bei der Abfahrt am nächsten Morgen ein Egg und Bacon Sandwich mit BBQ Sauce *es gibt nix besseres!!!* bevor es wieder weiter ging.
An diesem Tag ging es über die Old Jim Jim Road, die nur mit 4WD befahren werden darf, zum Yellow Water.
Die Straße war der Hammer sag ich euch! Pure Dirt Road! Ständig kreuzte ein Roo den Weg, man sah wilde Pferde am Wegesrand stehen und irgendwann stand plötzlich ein Büffel mitten auf dem Weg. Mir flatterte mein Herz, ich hoffte dass er sich nicht bedroht fühlt vom Auto, aber habe es dennoch geschafft ein Foto von ihm zu machen. Wahnsinn sag ich euch.
Und dann kam sogar noch ein weiteres Highlight! Die Durchquerung des South Alligator Rivers mit dem Jeep. Cool sag ich euch. Aber man wird doch nachdenklich. Was passiert, wenn das Auto stecken bleibt? Das Wasser ist voller Krokodile. Und was, wenn hier keiner kommt. Denn auf den ganzen fast 100km Dirt Road kam nicht ein Auto entgegen!!!! Und Handy geht hier nicht, da kein Empfang! Hammer!
Aber es ging ja alles gut! Und ich kam voller Adrenalin an den Yellow Water an.
Mein eigentlicher Grund hierher zu kommen war eine Bootsfahrt in den Yellow Water. Mitten durch Krokodile hindurch!
Doch da noch viel Zeit war, machte sich Fudge auf den Weg zu einem Billabong. Ich sag euch, mir war das ja nicht so geheuer. Zwar war es ein ausgezeichneter Weg, doch die Nähe zu den Krokos lies mich leicht nervös werden. Ich meine, habt ihr vielleicht eine Ahnung wie weit diese Viecher aus dem Wasser gehen und wie schnell die sind? Ich wusste es zu diesem Zeitpunkt auch noch nicht. Und die Schlange die sich unterwegs im Gras windete machte es mir auch nicht leichter. Doch das Billabong war wirklich schön und einfach riesig! Es war die Zitterpartie wert. Auch wenn ja nun noch der Rückweg anstand. Doch da war ich schon ruhiger und konnte sogar wieder Fotos machen.
Eine Bootsfahrt die ist lustig … zwischen Krokodilen
Nun war es also soweit. Endlich würde ich wirklich Krokodile sehen! Das versprach zumindest der Tourguide. Ich war gespannt. Und tatsächlich, kaum war das Boot losgefahren, machte es schon wieder halt, denn am Ufer im Schlamm lag mein erstes lebendiges, freilebendes Krokodil. Es sah gemütlich aus und schien sich zu sonnen. Wenn man sie so sieht, kann man sich kaum vorstellen wie gefährlich diese “Salties”, also Salzwasser Krokodile, sein können. Und während wir so durch das Wetland auf dem Yellow Water fuhren, erzählte der Guide, dass man an Land durchaus einem Krokodil entkommen kann. Man muss nur vom Ufer weglaufen. Denn Krokodile versuchen dich ins Wasser zu zerren und dich zu ertränken. Doch wie schnell muss man laufen? Auch das wurde geklärt. Etwas schneller als 10km/h denn so schnell laufen die Krokos und das ganze etwa 40 – 50 Meter weit. Danach geben sie meistens wieder auf. *Meistens, aha!*
Doch ich sah nicht nur Krokodile, die ganz ruhig neben unserem Boot nebenher schwammen, sondern eine Vogelvielfalt, sowas habt ihr noch nicht gesehen. Wahnsinn! Und erst diese Farben überall!!!!
Der Weg nach Gunlom
Nach einem Mittagsburger, machte Fudge sich dann auf den weiten Weg nach Gunlom. Dort sollte ein Wasserfall sein, und man könne sogar auf das Plateau hinaufklettern. Der Weg war hier wiederum das Ziel. Wieder eine Dirt Road in unglaublich schöner Landschaft. Palmen, Eukalyptus und Bambus wuchsen am Straßenrand und trennten mich so vom South Alligator River, von dem allerdings nur noch ein Rinnsal übrig war. *Trockenzeit!!!* Es ging immer weiter den Berg hinauf, bis man an einen Campingplatz kam. Von dort aus hatte man Zugang zum Walking Track zum Plateau und zum kleinen Wasserfallsee. Aufgrund der langen Fahrt blieb leider keine Zeit den Walking Track zum Plateau hinauf zu klettern *sehr steil sag ich euch!!!* Doch den kleinen See wollte ich mir ansehen.
Überall warnten Schilder davor hier zu schwimmen, doch das erste was ich sah, waren 2 Frauen im Bikini und mit Handtuch, die mir entgegen kamen.
Und dann sah ich es. Schwimmende Kinder und Männer und einige die sich am Strand sonnten. Ich war wirklich verblüfft. Der See war einzigartig und die Farbe eine wahre Pracht. Doch schwimmen? Nie im Leben wäre ich da rein gegangen. Der Wasserfall war ein dünnes Rinnsal, wohl durch die Trockenzeit. Doch man sah am Felsen deutlich, dass es auch anders sein kann. Und es roch so gut! Nach frischen klaren Süßwasser! Wow!
Bye, bye Kakadu
Nun war es an der Zeit wieder nach Darwin zu fahren, den in dieser Nacht noch, flog ich ja bereits wieder zurück nach Melbourne.
Doch auch diese Fahrt war voller Überraschungen. So sah ich zum ersten Mal die berühmten langen Road Trains, Buschfeuer und einen tollen Sonnenuntergang.
Mein Flug ging um 1:30 AM von Darwin nach Sydney und ich schaffte es sogar ein wenig zu schlafen. In Sydney schaffte ich es beinahe meinen Anschluss-Flug zu verpassen. Nichts Neues bei mir, aber dieses Mal war nicht ich daran Schuld. Mein Flug von Darwin nach Sydney war nämlich ein Domestic Flight (Inlandsflug) und deswegen befand ich mich in Sydney auch im Domestic Terminal, als ich auf meinen weiteren Flug wartete. Doch dieser erschien nicht auf den Monitoren. Einem Zufall ist es zu verdanken, dass ich auf die Flugnummer sah. Sie sah merkwürdig aus und auf Nachfrage erklärte man mir dann auch, dass es sich hierbei um einen International Flight handelte. Ich hatte noch 15 Minuten Zeit um ins Flugzeug zu kommen. Ein Ding der Unmöglichkeit, denn ich musste auf Grund des internationalen Fluges in einen anderen Terminal, wieder durch einen Security Check und dann noch durch die Immigration.
Ich habe es wohl der Tatsache zu verdanken, dass mein Gepäck schon an Bord war, dass man auf mich wartete. Zum zweiten Mal in meinem Leben hatte ich das exklusive Vergnügen, dass mich ein Bus quer über das Rollfeld fuhr, man mir geheime Hintertüren öffnete und ich so schnell durch alle Checks und Kontrollen kam.
Long Story short, ich habe es geschafft. Zwar völlig außer Puste, doch wieder einmal geschafft. *Man muss wissen, dass mir sowas öfter passiert. Aber das sind andere Geschichten ;-)*
Baby it’s cold outside
Bereits im Flugzeug sagte der Pilot durch, dass es in Melbourne luftige 5 Grad wären. Also für mich ein Temperaturunterschied von über 30 Grad. Und als ich dann später vor dem Flughafengebäude auf den Bus wartete, schien zwar die Sonne, doch es war wirklich extrem kalt. Und es fing an zu regnen. *hmpf*
Nun hat mich Melbourne wieder. Doch ich überlege, ob ich nicht bald noch ein paar Tage dort oben verbringen sollte. Es gibt da einiges was ich noch gerne sehen würde…
Und wenn ihr weiter fleißig auf meine Werbung klickt, kann ich mir das vielleicht auch leisten. *lach*
Sorry für den langen Text! Ich habe mich schon sehr kurz gefasst! Und morgen gibt es ein kleines Video mit Bildern zum Trip!… Vielleicht auch heute schon. We’ll see…
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